Rome | Day 5

We've only been getting Internet every other day because of the cost, so sorry for the delay on posts.

After the seminars on Thursday, Celeste and I took the shuttle down to Vatican City, but instead of going our usual route, we cut directly across the river to walk through these gardens to the Galleria Borghesi. Unfortunately, when we got to the museum, tickets were sold out for the rest of the day — nuts. We were disappointed, but the walk over was definitely worthwhile.






With all this extra time on our hands, we decided to walk around the old city walls and cut back into the city proper via Porta Pia. We then walked over to the Piazza della Repubblica where we took in the gorgeous fountain and spent some time reflecting and photographing the Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (Saint Mary's of the Angels and the Martyrs) Church, designed by Michaelangelo.

[repubblica]



[santa maria degli angeli]







We then walked down la Via Nazionale, headed toward il Musei Capitolini, seated just behind the Roman Forum. On our way, we stopped for gelato — awesome!


[other sites on our stroll down Via Nazionale]





So, as the story goes, il Musei Capitolini was first started in 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a group of bronze statues of great symbolic value to the People of Rome. Today, it has all sorts of amazing sculptures, paintings and artifacts, as well as an unbeatable view of the Roman Forum and Colosseum.

[exterior]


[views]



[art]






[fun]




When we were done, we headed back toward the river and wound our way up before crossing into Trastavere, a hip little neighborhood, for dinner at Dar Poeta. Our mussels in Sorrento were amazing, but this might be my favorite meal. For starters, it was a totally local, bustling place where people were shoulder to shoulder and we were the only ones speaking English. Great atmosphere. The food put it over the top. We had bruschetta with gorgonzola and honey, and another with ricotta and pesto. We each had a small salad and then split the house's specialty pizza with mozzarella, zucchini and this spicy sausage — no red sauce. It was all DELICIOUS!! We topped it off by splitting the specialty dessert: a ricotta and nutella calzone topped with powdered sugar and cocoa powder. I can not tell you how good it was.







Happy and sated, we walked back up to Vatican City and then took a cab back to the hotel.

A Shameless Plug...

For Radiohead and Philosophy. Two of my very best friends here in the Windy City have collaborated with a variety of others on the making of this book:



Brandon Forbes is one of two editors for the volume, and Micah Lott is one of the contributing authors. You can [and should] pad their pockets by ordering the book here, but if you want to find out more first check out the official blog here.

Mackensey Carter: Softball Superstar

My sister wrapped up her first year playing Big East softball with a 9-inning, 1-hit, 1-0 victory over St. John's. And yesterday she was named to the All-Big East 3rd Team! Check out the story here and here. Also, make sure to check out her final stats for the year here.

What a great first year!

Rome | Day 4

So Celeste’s iPhone alarm goes off this morning at 5:30 am and she looks at me in the dark with one eye open and says, “This alarm is for you to get up and shower.” It was the most effective wake-up call I’ve had in a long time — I was up, showered and ready just in time to nudge her at 6:22 and notify her that she had roughly 8 minutes to pull it together for breakfast downstairs and shuffling over to the bus for a 6:45 departure.

I should probably take this opportunity to share with our blog followers that normally I am not a fan of the “tour.” First and foremost because it makes it even more difficult to shed the word “tourist,” but also because you are at the mercy of a group schedule, not your own. In this case, the tour was free so it was hard to turn down.


Our group hopped on a bus and headed out to Sorrento and Pompeii for the day. It was a great drive through the Italian countryside and since we were on “bus #2” we had ample space to spread out and try to take a nap. Our guide on the bus, Anna, was very chatty. Luckily, she was also funny…that made up for a lot.






On our drive we passed the Abbey of Monte Cassino, which was totally bombed out during WWII since Allied forces thought it was a Nazi stronghold in Italy. As it turns out, the initial day of bombing there were no Germans inside, only five monks who were killed. It’s been rebuilt since and still houses an order of Benedictine monks and the body of St. Benedict himself.


Once we got closer to Sorrento we stopped to pick up our “local guide,” Enzo. He pointed out the Olive Tree Valley, which is one of the many parts of the landscape dedicated to brining us extra virgin olive oil — yum. The fertile area also yields oranges and lemons. The lemons go on to make a tasty limoncello — again, yum.


We saw a lot of gorgeous coastline along the Bay of Naples, the same body of water that is home to the islands of Ischia and Capri.






By the time we arrived in Sorrento’s main square, it was time for lunch. The guide recommended a place, but we were feeling especially non-conformist and got ourselves a little turned around and “lost” before stumbling on this cute little restaurant called, La Lanterna. Situated in a narrow alley about 10 minutes east of the square, it was extremely quaint, the service was spectacular and the food was delicious. Being so close to Capri, we both had Caprese salads and then each had a helping of mussels, a local specialty. Celeste had hers in a lemon pepper sauce, I had mine with tomato sauce. Both were AMAZING!! The servers plied us with all sorts of bread, which we couldn’t turn down and then, when we declined dessert, they brought us out biscotti anyway. So great! After that, it was back on the bus and on to Pompeii.













So now we come to the real “meat” of the day: Pompeii. On August 24, 79 A.D. Mt. Vesuvius erupted. Pompeii didn’t catch any lava, but it was subject to three days and three nights of ash and pumice stone. This preserved the city pretty much “as is” for thousands of years until the city was accidentally rediscovered 100 or so years ago. We were able to walk around a city that, while it may not look completely in tact, tells a fairly complete and complex story of life for the people of Pompeii. That includes insight into the homes of the rich, the public square, political life, theater, athletic stadium, and temples to Jupiter and Apollo. Perhaps most interesting, however, is a “house of ill repute” that looks as though it survived unscathed. How, pray tell, did archaeologists know this was an ancient brothel? In addition to the 5 small rooms, each with a bed, sharing a common space, frescoes along the top of the walls depict a variety of erotic acts which our guide informs us served as a “menu’ for customers. I kid you not!















All wackiness aside, Pompeii was breathtaking both in its beauty and in its sadness. Seeing the plaster casts of bodies archaeologists discovered were very moving; some were locked in time with their hands covering their mouths — presumably as they suffocated on sulfur gases. This beautiful, thriving city was frozen and the ruins today, while beautiful, still sit in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius.

We ended the tour with icy drinks (lemon and banana) and then it was back on the bus and back to the hotel.


Tomorrow: More seminars.